THE LOWDOWN

There’s something exhilaratingly escapist about leaving your Be Real life behind on a Friday night and driving into the middle of the country for a slap-up meal and blissful sleep. Which is exactly how I felt when I visited The Foxham in, er, the village of Foxham, which, although it feels as if it’s as remote as the outer Hebrides, is actually just a 14 minute drive from Chippenham. But when you get there, there’s very little else around, save houses, a church and plenty of fields, so you feel cut off from the busy-ness of the world, which is a Very.Good.Thing.

THE VIBE

Owner and 25 year old wunderkind, Freddie Spickernell, bought the place a little over a year ago in June 2021, so when I visited just over a year later it had the feeling of a brilliant start, with much more to come. Freddie, who often cooks too, used to be the Food and Beverage Manager at the celebrated Bowood Estate in Calne, has initially concentrated on and succeeded in bringing the food up to top-notch taste. Next he’ll focus to the decor, for which he has some exciting plans.

The pub’s in a quirky location – sitting proud next door to village houses and sticking out like a cuckoo in a nest, it’s much larger and taller than everything else around it (apart from the church) and looks like it might be several buildings put together. At the front there’s a terrace with umbrellas, picnic bench seating and hanging baskets, plus flickering festoon lighting, all so welcoming in the dwindling light.

You walk straight into the intimate bar area with stripped-back classic country, styling: dark sage green walls, a retro looking green patterned carpet, wooden tables and a large log burner, which is well-used in Winter. Candles by a company called Oliv are everywhere – they are locally-made by Freddie’s sister. Friendly staff say hello immediately and locals and regulars come and go; it has a cheery, amicable atmosphere and feels like everyone knows your name or will do by the time you leave. It feels totally relaxed, unfussy and not in any way overdone.

SCOFF AND QUAFF

I had the choice of where to sit and opt for the restaurant adjacent to the bar, a room that can seat up to 60 covers and that looks as if it might have been a barn thanks to the wooden beams overhead. It sort of feels as if everyone who’s eating there has discovered a best kept-secret, there’s an excited murmur in the air combined with the buzz of the open kitchen with its sounds of steam, clattering pans and the continuous ting of the bell announcing food is ready. (Honestly, since I started this hard job of reviewing restaurants for Muddy, that bell sound has me salivating like Pavlov’s dog every time I hear it, even from a cyclist).I also wonder if the atmosphere is also created by a feeling of comfort – the nearby village of Sutton Benger is supposed to be the most affluent in Wiltshire – although The Foxham makes everyone feel at home.

Mario, the Maitre’D took care of me and explained that the restaurant is now making a name for itself for its outstanding fish dishes which no-other pub in the area is doing. Apparently they have a delivery of fresh seafood direct from Cornwall every day from Tuesday to Saturday. Lobster is often on the menu (but not when I visited) as well as Moules Mariniere, Cornish Crab and Cornish Oysters. I chose the Seafood Linguine but was also well-jel later when a waitress brought the largest piece of battered fish ever seen by a hungry woman in Wiltshire to the next table. Fish and chips are as you’d expect – a staple.

For starters though, I chose Wild Mushrooms on Toast with Cream Sherry and Truffle. It was satisfyingly succulent with a mix of exotic funghi and a tangy flavour to the sauce, sprinkled with edible flowers. For wine, I chose a glass of chilled white Verdejo, which was perfect. I could have also ordered a pre-dinner cocktail from the cocktail list which has all the classics from a Sex on the Beach to an Aperol Spritz.

It didn’t take me long to polish my starter off, but thankfully the gastronomic gods allowed me a little breather between courses before the Seafood Linguine arrived. It was well-worth wearing an elasicated waistband for, especially as the pasta was homemade and very fresh (pasta dishes in restaurants are otherwise so dull without the just-made stuff), plus there were plenty of mussels, cockles, crab and prawns mixed through the creamy, lemony sauce.

I should just say, that although The Foxham is concentrating on fish dishes as its USP, there are other options on the menu too, like locally-sourced steaks (from Devizes) with roast vine tomatoes or a variety of burgers and a selection of veggie dishes too, plus a kids’ menu.

You’d think I wouldn’t be able to manage to stuff my face with much more – but no – once the main was (sadly) finished, I somehow managed to find room for pudding and plumped for Apple and Cinnammon Parfait, Milk Caramel and Apple. Now, I usually go for ice-cream over the softer, cold parfait, but I was chuffed with my choice – it was perfectly light and not too sweet, tasting almost wholesome (but not too much).

PILLOW TALK

After all that gorging, I considered taking owner Freddie up on his kind offer to join him and his friends to make the night last a little longer – after all he is the grandson of Lord Landsdown, who owns the Bowood Estate, so he’s bound to have some great stories. But the lure of an evening away by myself was to strong so I decided on an early-ish night. There are two bedrooms, both decorated in neutral creams, beiges and greys, both with a shower and TV.

However, hitting the hay there before 11.30pm isn’t a particularly good idea if you don’t have earplugs, because you can hear people outside or in the bar below..but only until 11.30pm… after which time it’s absolutely silent. I liked hearing muffled voices though, it was somehow comforting.

OUT AND ABOUT

Apart from my phone alarm, it was still super-silent the next morning which is the only way a Saturday after the night before should sound, so I took myself off for a 5K walk aka The Loop. This was a cinch to follow for someone like me who uses What Three Words to find the corner shop. I made it back at 8am for breakfast – either Continental or a Full English – and went for the latter – for me, a local pork sausage beats pain au chocolat every time, plus it’s prepared by Freddie himself. Oh, I must make a special mention for the coffee made with beans roasted by Square Root Roastery in nearby Edington. Guests receive cafetiere coffee with breakfast but I asked for a cappucino which they did for me and I totally recommend it.

After breakfast and if you were staying for the day you’d be in the perfect place to explore the Bowood House & Gardens or Badminton or take a trip to see the henge at Avebury. There are plenty of picturesque towns to visit too, like Bradford on Avon, Castle Combe and Lacock. Or just use it as a base to explore the surrounding countryside from, because I think you’ll fall hook, line and sinker for the very warm welcome and a totally tasty meal.

To find out more and book direct contact The Foxham