Wiltshire

<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-the-lowdown">THE LOWDOWN</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="666" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Duke-Hotel-garden.jpg" alt="The Duke Hotel" class="wp-image-34517" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Duke-Hotel-garden.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Duke-Hotel-garden-800x533.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Duke-Hotel-garden-768x511.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



You’ll find this pretty gastro pub in the diddy village of Hilmarton, just three miles north of Calne and a short drive from the M4. Italian chef Matteo Romeo and his partner Brandon Marais took over The Duke Hotel in early 2024, unveiling it to much fanfare back in April. Their vision? To create a welcoming hub for the local community while also appealing to foodies on the hunt for high-end, creative cuisine.



The Duke Hotel has quickly carved a great name for itself thanks to Matteo’s innovative menu and Brandon’s signature cocktails, but there’s more to the place than top notch food. There&#8217;s a pretty beer garden, five stylish bedrooms and, tucked away in their Victorian coach house you’ll also find <a href="https://www.instagram.com/duchessloungehilmarton/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">The Duchess Lounge</a> tearoom. Need some inspo for dinner? It also doubles as a farm shop, selling a carefully curated selection of locally produced foodie finds and flowers.



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-the-vibe">THE VIBE</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="666" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-88.jpg" alt="The Duke Hotel" class="wp-image-34712" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-88.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-88-800x533.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-88-768x511.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">We heart the gold panelled bar </figcaption></figure>



The Duke Hotel’s 19th Century frontage radiates history, from the impressive stone porch to the leaded windows and coach house-come-tearoom, with its ginormous double doors. Rumour has it that the first incarnation of the village pub was actually next door to the church, a stone’s throw across the road. However, its location displeased a Victorian vicar, and he had it rebuilt in its current spot around 1843. Intriguingly, there still remains a secret passageway buried deep in the beer cellar, connecting The Duke to the basement of the church.



Since Brandon and Matteo took over the freehold, the interior has seen a meticulous attention to detail. Walls were painted twice because the first shade (a deep blue) didn’t quite pass muster, and much of the furniture is selectively sourced vintage finds. Art is a mix of local landscapes and exuberant oil paintings, softly lit by candles and gently glowing lamps.



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="666" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-92.jpg" alt="The Duke Hotel" class="wp-image-34708" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-92.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-92-800x533.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-92-768x511.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">The restaurant is chic and simple </figcaption></figure>



The restaurant is an elegant combo of whitewashed walls, teamed with splashes of lime and sky blue. There’s also a big stone fireplace, to warm diners on drab winter days. In contrast, the bar has a glam, luxe look about it – with its midnight blue walls and gold panelled bar, it feels more like wandering into a cocktail parlour than a country pub. Sink into the leather Chesterfield with one of Brandon’s exceedingly quaffable cocktails in hand, and you’d easily forget you’re in rural Wiltshire.



Over in the Duchess Lounge tearoom, it’s a homely vibe. Think honey-hued stone walls, shelves lined with local farm produce and big, blousy cakes. Our fave was the passionfruit and mango Victoria Sponge, although the carrot cake is always a sell-out. Alongside tea, coffee and all manner of sweet treats (baked in house and by a baker in Calne) you’ll find delicious local cheeses, pastries, chutneys and charcuterie. In fact, everything we spotted hailed from the south-west, from Godminster and Quicke’s cheeses to Paxcroft Farm eggs and Plank’s Dairy milk. There’s a gorgeous selection of fresh and dried flower bouquets too, from local florist Emma.



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="666" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-80.jpg" alt="The Duke Hotel" class="wp-image-34720" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-80.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-80-800x533.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-80-768x511.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Emma&#8217;s flowers smell divine </figcaption></figure>



Come night, the Duchess Lounge becomes a handy function room, often used for workshops and events. Recent gatherings include sip and paint (a dreamy combo of art and wine), wreath making and floristry masterclasses. This is very much in line with Brandon and Matteo’s community ethos, as is the fact they champion suppliers within a 20-mile radius. Meat hails from Wilts and surrounding counties, ingredients &#8211; including milk, butter, cheese and wine &#8211; are organic where possible and many of the kitchen’s herbs and veggies are home grown.



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-scoff-amp-quaff">SCOFF &amp; QUAFF</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="666" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-84.jpg" alt="The Duke Hotel" class="wp-image-34716" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-84.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-84-800x533.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-84-768x511.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



In addition to classics like burgers and a lip-smacking Sunday roast, this gastro-pub serves a divine fusion of Asian and European food that’s far more exciting than your usual fare. Think house cured trout sashimi, slow-cooked shoulder of lamb with clotted cream mash and lime French meringue with popping candy. Even ‘Fish Night Thursday’ has a twist. Our fave has to be the ‘posh fish and chips’ sharing board, with tempura battered Brixham haddock, garlic butter scallops and skinny fries.



I came for the tasting menu with a friend, and would definitely recommend you rock up wearing an elasticated waistband. After a palate-cleansing lemongrass tea, we moved swiftly onto dainty Marie-rose prawn cocktails, with potato hash and gochujang (Korean) mayonnaise. The combo of the soft prawn and crunchy hash were divine, but the rich and tangy mayo really upped the ante.



Next up was Matteo’s most popular dish, a hickory-smoked egg Parmentier with real black truffle. This was a real showstopper, and a hard recommend from me. For a start it involved some fabulous theatrical drama, arriving under a glass cloche full of fragrant, billowing smoke. But the taste and textures truly lived up to the hype, with a soft sous vide egg, earthy potato, distinctive black truffle and crisped onions.



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="666" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Duke-Hotel-caviar.jpg" alt="The Duke Hotel" class="wp-image-34515" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Duke-Hotel-caviar.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Duke-Hotel-caviar-800x533.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Duke-Hotel-caviar-768x511.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



Another absolute highlight was the caviar tasting board. This is a great one if you’re after something different, or a sociable dish to share. At Brandon’s recommendation we gently heaped our charcoal crackers with a combo of dill, parsley, sour cream and diced shallots, then topped the lot with a delicate dollop of caviar. We devoured five sublime varieties and, for me, the wild pink king salmon caviar really stood out.



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="666" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-82.jpg" alt="The Duke Hotel" class="wp-image-34717" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-82.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-82-800x533.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-82-768x511.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



Greedily, I still managed to pack in a deliciously flavoursome butternut squash risotto, then a dessert. In my defence I did have a palate cleanser in between – a tiny frozen strawberry daiquiri. However, the pièce de résistance was my dark chocolate delice, with caramelised pecans and Cornish cream ice cream. With a touch of gold leaf and a scattering of violets, it was oh-so-pretty, and it tasted divine. The chocolate was rich, without being overpowering, and a passionfruit coulis perfectly softened the taste.



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-pillow-talk">PILLOW TALK</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="666" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-79.jpg" alt="The Duke Hotel" class="wp-image-34721" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-79.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-79-800x533.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-79-768x511.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



Fancy a sleepover? The Duke Hotel has five rooms, decorated in bold patterns and dotted with vintage furniture finds. You’ll find comfy mattresses, period fireplaces, Nespresso coffee machines and thoughtful touches, like mini bottles of fresh milk. 



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="666" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-85.jpg" alt="The Duke Hotel" class="wp-image-34715" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-85.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-85-800x533.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2024/10/Untitled-design-85-768x511.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



For out-there décor and a sheer sense of space we particularly liked the deluxe super king room. With its showstopping floral wallpaper, decadent velvet bedhead and garden views, this would make for a great spot for a romantic overnighter. Keen to bring your four-legged pal? Dogs are welcome in some bedrooms too.



Breakfast involves popping over to The Duchess Lounge, where you can set yourself up for the day with dishes like waffles or avocado and poached egg on toast. 



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-out-amp-about">OUT &amp; ABOUT </h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="667" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2023/10/Bowood-1000x667.jpg" alt="Bowood " class="wp-image-31755" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2023/10/Bowood-1000x667.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2023/10/Bowood-800x533.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2023/10/Bowood-768x512.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2023/10/Bowood-788x525.jpg 788w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wilts/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2023/10/Bowood.jpg 1500w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



You’re just six miles from <a href="https://www.bowood.org/bowood-house-gardens/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Bowood House and Gardens</a> here, where you’ll find 100 acres of gorgeous gardens and parkland. Check out the lake, grotto and – if you’ve got kids in tow – the vast adventure playground. From mid-April to early June, the famous <a href="https://www.bowood.org/bowood-house-gardens/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Woodland Gardens</a> are also ablaze with bluebells, azaleas and rhododendrons.



A 25-minute drive takes you to Marlborough, a stunning market town with oodles of indies. Check out upmarket boutiques <a href="https://willowandwolfboutique.co.uk/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Willow and Wolf</a>, pop into <a href="https://coffilab.co.uk/locations/marlborough-coffee-store/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Coffi Lab</a>&nbsp;for a caffeine fix or, if you just want to chill, head to&nbsp;<a href="https://www.theparadecinema.com/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">The Parade Cinema</a>.



If you fancy a good stomp, head six miles south to Cherhill. A walk up the chalk escarpment takes you to one of Wiltshire’s famous white horses, galloping across the hillside. They are striking landmarks, and if it’s not too windy the monument at the top makes for an excellent picnic spot.



The Duke Hotel may be in a reasonably rural spot, but it’s worth knowing that it’s handily bang on the bus route joining Swindon, Royal Wootton Bassett, Calne and Chippenham. Buses run right through until midnight, so you can avail yourself of Brandon’s cocktails without the cost of a cab.



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-the-muddy-verdict">THE MUDDY VERDICT </h2>



Good for:&nbsp;A romantic night away, families and of course foodies.The innovative menu makes The Duke Hotel a fab shout for anyone who fancies venturing from standard pub fare. It’s a great option for cocktail lovers too – we highly recommend Brandon’s Japanese Slipper, a heady mix of Midori melon liqueur, lemon juice and Grand Marnier.



Not for:&nbsp;The rooms are spotless, comfy and great value to boot, but this isn’t an all-singing, all-dancing hotel with masses of facilities.



The damage: Good value – you’re very much at the gastro end of dining here and dishes were fairly priced. Nibbles £4/5, starters £7/10 and mains £17/26. Puds linger around the £8 mark, while children’s portions are £6/7.



Rooms at the pub start at £90.



<a href="https://www.dukehotelhilmarton.co.uk/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">The Duke Hotel</a>,&nbsp;1 Church Rd, Hilmarton, Calne,&nbsp;Wiltshire



SN11 8SD. <a href="tel:01249760634">01249 760634&nbsp;</a>&nbsp;

Review: The Duke Hotel, Hilmarton, near Calne

You may also like