The Peppermill is an elegantly renovated fifteenth-century townhouse in the centre of lively market town Devizes. There is a bustling restaurant on the ground floor, where steak-eating locals out for a treat mix with holiday-makers eating properly posh burgers. Those locals know what they’re doing – that steak comes from top local butcher Walter Rose.

This is only the start of the varied menu, from starters of Brixham crab salad and grilled peaches with Parma ham, and mains including hake with mussel & whisky chowder and Dingley Dell pork tenderloin. Vegetarians are well-catered for, and I chose the vegan option of broccoli & chilli fritter with hassleback beetroot – both novel and scrumptious.

Respect to the good-value wine list, with lots of faves, such as a Picpoul de Pinet, available by the glass for well under £6. Kidding ourselves as usual that a whole bottle isn’t required…

Both menu and decor fuse a respect for the traditional with contemporary touches, with exposed beams, funky modern wallpapers and touches of modern art.

A recent expansion into the Castle Hotel next door means there are now 16 boutique-style bedrooms, including a bridal suite with hand-carved four-poster bed. We loved market-square facing room 16 with its luxe walk-in shower, double-ended bath and super-comfy bed.

An independent family-run business (yay for that!), the Peppermill has a lovely un-corporate vibe, with really delightful staff who go out of their way to accommodate.

While you’re here, be sure to take a turn around Devizes – a town blessed with two top Muddy attractions: an astonishing quantity of handsome Georgian buildings, and a tonne of unique little indie shops to peruse.