THE LOWDOWN

Three Daggers farm shop — © Ben Phillips

Hot foot it to the hillside village of Edington, and you’ll find this impressive pub, along with a tantalising farm shop, microbrewery and some seriously stonking views. With its red brick exterior, sunlit garden and flawless food, the Three Daggers exudes all the character you’d want from a quintessential English boozer, plus a healthy dollop of oh-so-polished charm.

When American property millionaire (and local resident) Chad Pike bought the Three Daggers over a decade ago, he saved it from an uncertain future and invested in impeccable renovations. Today it’s a relaxed yet elegant country inn that forms the core of the community, with delicious food, immaculate bedrooms and a clutch of awards to its name.

Wiltshire holiday cottage at Three Daggers

Hidden just across the road you’ll find Hillside Cottage, a pristine Wiltshire holiday cottage with an outdoor hot tub, sauna and perfectly manicured croquet lawn. There are two other cottages nearby, plus a hugely popular farm shop onsite. Housed in a striking timber barn, it sells everything from locally-baked pastries and sourdough, to scotch eggs, sausage rolls, jams and juices. There’s a tempting array of British gins and spirits (we recommend Ten Hides, distilled nearby) and excellent coffee, in hot demand from cyclists who frequently stop off to refuel on the terrace.

THE VIBE

You’re as likely to find a group of locals propping up the bar with their dogs as you are a wealthy London crowd, down to soak up a long weekend in the country. Westbury station (a ten-minute drive) is just 72 minutes from Paddington.

We arrived on a gloriously sunny midweek evening to find a gentle buzz as regulars sipped pints of Three Daggers Ale in the sunny garden. A step inside the restaurant revealed a calm, cosy atmos, with a few groups tucking into dinner. The décor here is simple and stylish – ancient beams trace the ceiling, while soft lighting and a blazing double-sided fireplace keep things snug during winter. Seating is a mix of leather-topped bar stools, comfy chairs and wooden pews, scattered with deliciously plump cushions.

It would be remiss not to mention that there’s a generous village play field bang next to the pub, making this the perfect place for the kids to get stuck into the swings and slides while you sip on a sundowner (mine’s a Château Minuty). Add the vintage Citroën ‘beer bus’ (above) and outdoor Pizza Shack into the mix, and you’ve got an idyllic summer’s evening.

Adjacent to the field is a vast stretch tent, suspended over a pretty gravelled area, which makes a great spot to hunker down if showers strike. When it’s warm enough, this is where seasonal supper clubs are held – the pub holds regular themed evenings, including a “gallop” through the history of gin (accompanied by lavish tastings and a four-course meal).

SCOFF & QUAFF

When it comes to booze, the undisputed star of the show is the pub’s own range of Three Daggers Ale. It’s crafted in the impressive glass-fronted microbrewery, which a stone’s throw across the beer garden, and made using maltings from nearby Warminster.

If ale isn’t your thing, there is plenty of other deliciousness to tempt you. After a glass of chilled Château Minuty, I tucked into an Edington Priory Garden cocktail. Named after Chad’s farm estate, it’s made from the Three Daggers’ own pressed apples, elderflower, soda and mint. It was light, refreshing and just the right balance of sweet and sharp – think summer in a glass, and you’ve pretty much hit the nail on the head.

Beetroot hummus Three Daggers — © Ben Phillips

The food menu is varied, with a carefully-considered mix of dishes, including Daggers Ale battered haddock, pearl barley risotto and several robust steak options for the carnivores among us. There’s also a classic kids’ menu (think sausages, fish goujons and pasta), alongside a smattering of small plates to tickle your tastebuds.

While we deliberated over the main menu, we tucked into chargrilled Padron peppers and Priory Farm beetroot hummus. Made from beets grown on Chad’s estate, which is just down the road, it was creamy, bright and topped with a moreish sprinkle of smoked almond dukkah. Much of the food in the restaurant and the shop hail from the Priory Farm, making good on the Three Daggers’ farm-to-fork ethos.

Appetites unleashed, the husband and I swiftly moved on to starters of roasted asparagus, crispy egg and truffle dressing. Simple ingredients, but the combination of fire-kissed spears with buttery truffle and rich, runny egg was sublime. It was also topped with scattering of violas, creating an oh-so-pretty pop of colour (they are grown on site, of course).

When it came to the main event, we toyed with sharing the Chateaubriand, but I eventually settled on bavette steak with spinach black truffle mustard. With its seared exterior and perfectly pink centre, it was butter-soft, full of flavour and paired perfectly with the velvety sauce. The delicate pile of spinach added earthy freshness, cutting through the richness of the meaty dish.

Meanwhile, the husband embraced honey and five spice glazed pork belly, with roasted carrot and calvados apples. We teamed our meals with a generous glass of full-bodied Apo Argentinian Malbec, which slipped down all too easily.

After a cheeky two-and-a-half courses we felt pretty stuffed, so when it came to dessert it was a close contest between a light affogato and a strawberry panna cotta. The lure of caffeine buzz won us over, and we didn’t regret it. The creamy vanilla ice cream, swimming in bitter espresso proved the perfect end to what was a fabulous feast.

PILLOW TALK

When it comes to overnight accommodation, The Three Daggers certainly doesn’t skimp on style. There is trio of rooms in the pub, decorated in classic muted shades of green and cream – think traditional cast iron radiators, sumptuous headboards and woollen rugs. The largest, Coulston, has a clawfoot bath (as well as a vast shower) and far-reaching views over the vale below.

There are also three cottages in the vicinity – Hillside, Orchard House and Brewhouse – which are a slick, sumptuous affair. You’ll find every little touch has been thought of, from waterproof coats to wellies, a croquet set and fresh bread and jams from the farm shop. There’s also the option to pre-order hampers brimming with everything from locally-sourced bacon, to a flagon of Three Daggers Ale. Beer monster in your crowd? They can wander over to the brewery for a refill too.

Wiltshire holiday cottage Hillside — © Ben Phillips

I had a good nose around Hillside Cottage (above), which sleeps 12, and was wowed by what I saw. The décor is classic, without an ounce of chintz, with flagstone flooring and the squishiest of carpets. Tones are neutral and earthy, while walls are peppered with paintings of countryside scenes. The kitchen is to die for – it stretches the length of the property, with an epic vista over rolling fields below. Not that you’ll actually need to cook, with the pub a quick hop across the road.

The bedrooms (all ensuite) are kitted out with vast steam showers and Bramley toiletries. Of course, there are fluffy robes and slippers too, so you can pad about and make like lady of the house. Outside, you’ll find a meadowy, flower-filled garden, with a hot tub and plunge pool perfectly poised on a terrace set into the hillside. Throw open the doors to the adjacent barn, and a glass-fronted steam room and sauna are revealed. All-in-all, this is a pretty epic spot to watch the sun set.

If you fancy a bit of pampering there’s also a stylish ‘wellbeing barn’ onsite, which smells divine thanks to Neal’s Yard aromatherapy oils. With a trio of treatment rooms available, guests can prebook anything from a Swedish massage to a hot stone treatment. Yoga and Pilates classes can be organised too, or you can start the day with a guided foraging session or nature walk. This isn’t a power stomp, more a mindful stroll, with the chance to pick up some breathwork techniques.

Battles and Vikings more your bag? Gather round the firepit one evening for a talk on how Edington changed the course of British history. This is where King Alfred defeated Danish invaders (we’re talking back in 878), securing the future of Wessex.

OUT & ABOUT

Follow the winding path up through Hillside’s garden, and you’ll find yourself emerging onto Salisbury Plain. A two-mile walk takes you up to Westbury White Horse, one of Wiltshire’s eight prancing equine figures. They are striking landmarks, and their dizzy heights make them excellent picnic spots too. In the opposite direction, a 2.5 mile stomp sees you in Erlestoke Woods, which is carpeted with an incredible display of bluebells come late spring.

If you can prise yourself out of the countryside, take a 25-minute drive to nearby Devizes. This bustling Georgian town has a great Thursday market, over 500 listed buildings and tons of independent shops. Try White Chalk Gallery for paintings and prints by local artists, or indie bookshop, Devizes Books. Kids in tow? Whisk them off to the Rowdey Cow, an ice-cream parlour with some ingenious flavours. Our favourite has to be Parma Violet, or Lotus Biscoff.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Three Daggers farm shop — © Ben Phillips

Good for: The polished menu and relaxed vibe make the Three Daggers an ideal choice for friends and couples, while the Pizza Shack is perfect for parents wanting a chilled evening out with the kids. Seeking out somewhere to stay? Hillside Cottage makes a great getaway for groups or families after a rural sanctuary (you can bring the pooch too). Between the hot tub, sauna, steam room and croquet lawn, there’s plenty to keep everyone entertained. Better still, the pub and farm shop mean you barely need to lift a finger in the kitchen.

Not for: This is rural Wiltshire so, if you want to drink, you’ll need a taxi (unless you’re staying over of course). The Orchard House and Brewhouse are a 13-minute stroll from the pub and farm shop, which gives a good chance to work off your chips and vino (or stargaze at night).

The damage: Great value – dishes were a cut above many other pubs I’ve tried recently, and prices are reasonable too. Small plates £4/6, starters £7/10 and mains £14/28. Puds hover around £7, while children’s portions are £6.50/7.

Rooms at the pub start at £115, while Hillside Cottage (sleeps 12) costs £1200-1800 per night. The Orchard House (sleeps 8) is £340-500 a night and Brewhouse (sleeps four) £250-350.

The Three Daggers, 47 Westbury Road, Edington, Wiltshire BA13 4PG. 01380 830 940.

Review: The Three Daggers, Edington

You may also like