THE LOWDOWN

When you arrive in Sutton Benger, you can’t fail to miss this 17^th Century showstopper, poised bang in the centre. With its impressive stone façade, oh-so-cosy interior and excellent menu, The Wellesley Arms is exactly the sort of pub we’d all adore to have on our doorstep. Thankfully its location, a short hop from the M4 and close to the Cotswolds, makes it super easy to have a slice of the action.

Wander through the arched entrance and you’ll find a packed bar, enticing restaurant and an incredibly warm welcome. Owners Mark Holton and Mark Florey have overseen a meticulous renovation since taking over the lease in 2022 and it’s certainly paid off. This place is buzzing, with roaring fires in winter, al fresco wood-fired pizza on summer days and year-round gastro-quality food. From the skittles alley to the packed bar and busy restaurant, this is very much a community hub. But don’t be fooled, we’re not talking about an old-fashioned pub. With its relaxed vibe, quirky décor and the warmest of welcomes, The Wellesley is modern hospitality at its best.

THE VIBE

With cosy corners, candles, soft lighting and wide oak beams, this place oozes comfort. Oak parquet flooring, low lighting, stone mullion windows and a vast, glowing fire add to the country pub vibes. There’s incredible attention to detail too, and a touch of glamour. Many of the wooden tables and leather-backed chairs are meticulously sourced antique finds, while the bold restaurant wallpaper is one of Emma Shipley’s enchanting animalia designs. We particularly loved the quirky nods, like the portrait of Queen Victoria perched above the wood burning stove, and the glass shelves lined with glittering decanters. There’s even a vintage stag’s head in the bar area, in keeping with the inn’s country vibe.

We arrived on a Friday evening, to hear music and chatter coming from the rear courtyard. The horsebox bar and wood-fired pizza oven were going great guns, while guests sipped on drinks around a blazing firepit. Indoors, the bar and restaurant were full and humming with happy chatter, no doubt eased along by the wide choice of wines, ales and spirits. Think everything from a rich Viognier to Laurent Perrier and several great local gins – we enjoyed a Cotswold g&t, which came garnished with juniper berries.

Many of the drinkers and diners were regulars, and Mark and his team are clearly masters at the art of hospitality. You are immediately scooped up and looked after, without ever feeling fussed over. The sense of community here is massive, and board games, newspaper reading and skittles are encouraged every bit as much as a three-course meal. This place prides itself on being pooch-friendly too, and we spotted several furry friends snuggled up under tables. In fact, there’s even a Kilner jar stuffed with treats on the bar.

SCOFF & QUAFF

The Wellesley offers a main lunch and dinner menu, but there’s also a lunchtime light bites option and a fixed price midday menu too. With three courses for £21, the latter is cracking value. Do you fancy spending your weekends sipping a glass of red by a roaring fire? This place begs to be your Sunday stop-off. The roasts are divine – choose from chicken, locally reared pork or beef, plus all the trimmings. There’s a fab kids’ menu too, with a main and a scoop of Rowdy Cow ice cream for a very reasonable tenner. It’s also worth noting that the vast majority of dishes are gluten free, even down to the battered squid and chicken Milanese.

But back to our meal. My starter was a cider battered squid, which I’d highly recommend. Soft, chunky pieces of squid in a light, crispy coating, with a quenelle of delicious garlic aioli. The husband tucked into a ham hock ballotine (above), which was paired with bacon crumb and pickled carrot. Simple ingredients, but the combination looked and tasted sublime.

For the main event, we deliberated between fresh Brixham market fish (a delicious hake) and fillet steak. I plumped for steak in the end, and boy was I glad I did. It was butter-soft, full of flavour and paired perfectly with a rich red wine sauce, Pommes Anna and a roasted Roscoff onion. I paired it with a robust Rioja, which certainly tickled my taste buds. Meanwhile, the husband relished his hake, which came with braised salsify, crab beignet, crab sauce & fresh dill. He’s a devoted fish lover and declared this amongst the best he’d ever eaten, which is high praise indeed.

In theory I was far too full for a pud, but the brownie sounded far too good to resist. It was deliciously fudgy, and perfectly complemented by a chunky scoop of Wiltshire’s own Rowdy Cow ice cream. The husband was a little more restrained and opted for a lighter panna cotta, which tasted every bit as gorgeous as it looked.

DISABILITY ACCESS

Good wheelchair access from the front of the pub.

OUT & ABOUT

You’re in easy reach of Bowood House and Gardens, Castle Combe race circuit, Highgrove and Westonbirt Arboretum. You’re also just four miles from Chippenham, from where you can catch a direct train to London in just over an hour. Sutton Benger and the surrounding area is a stunning place for a stomp and The Wellesley has teamed up with Benger Trails, a local walking site, to give you the heads up on some of the best routes.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: Everything from girly drinks to romantic evenings and family roasts. The large stable block function room also makes The Wellesley Arms a great shout for corporate events, Christmas parties and weddings. This is an ideal spot if you fancy blasting away the cobwebs with a pre or post lunch walk, pooch in tow.

Not for: This is rural Wiltshire, so public transport links are scarce. If you want to make the most of the wine list (and we recommend you do) we’d suggest pre-booking a cab.

The damage: Very reasonably priced for the quality of the food. Starters are around £8, main courses from around £20. A three-course special event meal (such as Christmas) comes in around £36.

The Wellesley Arms, 10 High Street, Sutton Benger, Chippenham, SN15 4RD. Open Weds-Sunday. Ring 01249 720664 to book or see their website for full details.