THE LOWDOWN

It’s hard to imagine a more atmospheric setting. Dating back to 1220, The Old Bell Hotel is widely recognised as England’s oldest hotel and enjoys one of the best addresses in Wiltshire, rubbing shoulders with magnificent Malmesbury Abbey. The history doesn’t stop there either. King Athelstan, the first King of England, is buried right next door.

The location is certainly a major draw. Sitting on the edge of the southern Cotswolds, The Old Bell is perfectly placed for exploring this beautiful corner of the country. Wander around the independent boutiques of nearby Tetbury, visit the glorious gardens at Highgrove, explore the much-filmed Chavenage House or spend the day soaking up Bath’s elegant Georgian architecture, before returning to the hotel for cocktails in the Tyger Bar.

Today, this ivy-clad landmark effortlessly marries its medieval history with bold, contemporary interiors. Following an extensive refurbishment by Texan owners Kim and Whit Hanks, the hotel feels both historic and refreshingly relaxed, with colourful design details sitting comfortably alongside original features. Standout food, inviting lounges to sink into and expertly mixed cocktails only add to its appeal.

It’s worth knowing that while the Hanks family bought The Old Bell in 2021, their connection to Malmesbury stretches back much further. One of Whit Hanks’ ancestors, Walter Hanks, ran a mill on the River Avon below the hotel during the 1100s, making this something of a homecoming.

THE VIBE

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And if your interiors mantra is “more is more”, you’ve come to the right place. The Old Bell Hotel is a joyful celebration of maximalism, sprinkled with unexpected surprises, from Gerald and Janet, the resident giraffes, to zebra-print ceilings, monkey lamps and quirky antique finds. There’s a real sense of story throughout, from the antiquities tucked into every nook and cranny to vast stone archways and gently weathered timber floors. It’s worth knowing that owner Whit Hanks is a former antiques dealer who once moved an entire church from Vietnam to his native Texas after discovering it was destined for demolition.

The heart of the hotel is the lounge, a gorgeous dual-aspect room that’s been cleverly reimagined as a series of intimate seating areas. Think original stone mullion windows, gigantic stone fireplaces and a teal-coloured ceiling that glitters with hundreds of hand-painted gold stars. Below, colourful kilim rugs and velvety sofas rub alongside antique armchairs and olive trees. It’s a clever balancing act, and it works.

Old Bell Hotel Tyger Bar — The Tyger Bar channels après-ski vibes in winter

Wallpaper lovers, brace yourselves. Texan owner Kim Hanks has left her mark throughout the hotel with a fearless mix of colour, texture and pattern, showcasing designs from the likes of Zardi & Zardi, Thibaut and Lewis & Wood. Look closely and you’ll discover beautiful papers nestled between beams, stretching across ceilings and covering entire walls.

Alongside the restaurant and Tyger Bar, there’s also a light-filled Garden Room opening onto a lawn, where everything from weddings and baby showers to birthday celebrations takes place. In summer, the Tyger Bar spills out into the courtyard, while in winter it transforms into a cosy après-ski-inspired hideaway complete with faux fur throws, baked Camembert and ski-inspired cocktails. Mine’s a winter margarita.

In fact, one of the nicest things about The Old Bell is that it feels just as much a locals’ haunt as a destination hotel. We arrived late on a Sunday afternoon to find locals catching up over cocktails beneath the powder-blue parasols in the courtyard, families dropping in for afternoon tea and overnight guests settled into cosy corners with the Sunday papers and a glass of wine.

PILLOW TALK

My suite, Loring, perfectly sums up The Old Bell’s approach to interiors. The teal four-poster immediately catches your eye, but there’s plenty more to discover. Ancient beams stretch overhead, an enormous stone chimney breast anchors the room and mullioned windows frame tumbling wisteria outside. Every glance reveals another beautiful detail, from bold wallpaper and thick gingham curtains to striped sofas and velvety cushions. Even the wonderfully creaky ancient cupboard turned out to be hiding tea, coffee and ice-cold cans of water – a thoughtful touch. Thankfully, those gloriously thick medieval walls keep the room blissfully cool too.

The bathroom is just as characterful. Zingy green and white tiles are paired with deep aubergine panelling and, yes, more glorious wallpaper. It shouldn’t work – at least not on paper – but somehow the colours sing together. A huge sink, chunky cut-glass tumblers and thoughtful finishing touches complete a space that’s every bit as bold as the bedroom.

I’ve also been lucky enough to stay in Athelstan, a Master Suite named after the first King of England. Enter through a dramatic wooden archway into a room of soaring beams, textured fabrics and statement design touches: think velvet ottomans, a striking chandelier and bold, hand-painted wallpaper that feels more gallery than guest room.

The rooms don’t skimp on modern comforts either. Expect Dyson hair dryers, flatscreen TVs, fluffy robes and Bramley toiletries, while homemade chocolate cookies and macarons provided a very warm welcome.

If you’re not in the market for a Master Suite, worry not. The Classic rooms are still generously proportioned, the Character rooms are packed with 13th-century beams and period charm, while the Coach House Cosy rooms offer a stylish, budget-friendly option.

Travelling with family or a group of friends? The Old Bell also has six Townhouse Suites tucked away within a short stroll of the hotel. Ideal if you fancy a little more space or the flexibility of self-catering, they feature the same fearless interiors as the main hotel, with layers of bold wallpaper, rich textures, beautiful fabrics and original period features sitting alongside Bramley toiletries, fluffy robes and flatscreen TVs. Better still, you’re only a few minutes from the hotel’s restaurant, Tyger Bar and award-winning afternoon tea, giving you the best of both worlds.

SCOFF & QUAFF

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The Old Bell Hotel scooped Best Afternoon Tea in the 2026 Muddy Awards and, after settling in for a leisurely afternoon, it’s easy to see why. First came the towering tea stand, layered with savouries and beautiful pâtisserie, followed by a generous basket of warm scones with giant dollops of clotted cream and jam. The tea stands are wonderfully theatrical too, adding to the sense that this is a proper occasion rather than just a quick bite to eat.

Normally I greedily bolt through the savouries in my haste to get to the sweet stuff, but that would have been a mistake here. Light, fluffy sandwiches came stuffed with smoked salmon mousse, egg mayonnaise and brisket with Bovril butter and gherkin. Then it was onto a chicken and Emmental cordon bleu bite. Looking a little like arancini, it was delightfully crisp on the outside with a gloriously oozy centre. Another standout was the fish pie tartlet – a beautifully executed miniature topped with a swirl of mash and a gentle kick of horseradish.

The scones were beautifully light and fruity (even my gluten-free ones, which so often resemble rocks), while the pâtisserie looked like artworks in every shade of the jewelled rainbow. We adored the raspberry frangipane tart, while the strawberry choux bun was heaven for anyone who loves a heady mix of strawberries and cream. My favourite, though, had to be the mango macaron – a decadent little disc that looked almost too pretty to eat.

To drink, we worked our way through everything from Darjeeling to a fragrant raspberry lemonade infusion with hibiscus and lemongrass, alongside green tea. My youngest happily demolished a frothy hot chocolate and looked thoroughly delighted with her choice.

We sampled both the traditional and gluten-free afternoon teas, and there was barely anything to tell them apart. If you’re gluten-free, you certainly won’t feel like you’re getting the poor relation. There’s also a fabulous children’s version, the Little Angels Tea (£15), complete with finger sandwiches, dainty cakes and buttermilk scones served with Nutella.

DINNER

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Dinner is served in Abbey Row Restaurant, a series of intimate rooms that feel more like the dining room of a gloriously eccentric country house than a hotel restaurant. Ancient stone fireplaces, softly glowing lamps and eclectic artwork create an atmosphere that’s cosy without trying too hard. Do take a moment to seek out the witty needlepoint collection on the way in – it’s full of quirky humour.

Kick things off with a cocktail. The Grey Lady is a house favourite, named after the hotel’s resident ghost (friendly, we’re assured). The wine list deserves a mention too. We opted for the Malbec, made from grapes grown at Kim and Whit’s vineyard in Texas Wine Country. Smooth, rich and full of character, it felt like a lovely nod to the owners’ story.

The Devon crab salad was one of those dishes that looked almost too pretty to disturb, with sweet crab, bright mango, a gentle hint of chilli and a delicate pool of Thai green sauce. For mains, the stone bass was beautifully cooked, with crisp skin, buttery-soft flesh and silky caramelised cauliflower purée. Across the table, a generously chunky ribeye arrived with charred hispi cabbage and fat, golden chips.

Desserts were every bit as impressive. The cheeseboard came piled high with excellent gluten-free crackers and a superb selection of cheeses. My favourite, though, was the alcohol-free take on a piña colada – roast pineapple, crushed amaretti and clouds of coconut cream. Dreamy.

BREAKFAST

You’d think we’d still be full after the previous day’s feasting, but breakfast quickly put an end to that idea. While the buffet is packed with flaky pastries, creamy yoghurt, homemade granolas and fresh fruit, it’s the cooked menu that really sets The Old Bell Hotel apart. Alongside a superb Malmesbury Full English you’ll find options like confit garlic mushrooms on toast and a three-bean succotash – a hearty mix of beans, sweetcorn and tomatoes topped with a fried egg.

I opted for The Old Bell Hotel Royale, which came topped with generous slivers of St Ives smoked salmon, chive cream, baby rocket and a showering of zested Parmesan. A glass of crisp apple juice made from fruit grown at neighbouring Abbey House Manor was the perfect accompaniment, followed by creamy Greek yoghurt, homemade peanut butter granola and a berry compote from the buffet.

OUT & ABOUT

Malmesbury Abbey is right next door and well worth a visit for serious architectural drama. From there you can mooch around the town and explore indies including French Grey interiors, Bertie B’s gifts and Sassy & Boo fashion. If you’re up for fresh air, take a wander along the river Avon or book in for a tour of the gorgeous gardens at Abbey House Manor This hidden gem opens to the public just a couple of times a year, but tours are available exclusively for hotel guests. Rumour even has it that King Athlestan’s finally resting place is actually in the grounds of the house.

Westernbirt Arboretum is a 10-minute drive, and the pretty town of Tetbury is well worth a mooch if you’re after antiques. King Charles’ beloved Highgrove is a mere 12 minutes away, as is Chavenage House. The chances are you’ve spied this gorgeous country mansion in Poldark and Rivals – it doubles both as the Poldark family pile and the home of Declan O’Hara in the new Disney+ Rivals adaptation.

KID FRIENDLY?

The hotel itself has a grown-up vibe, but kids are very much welcomed. Most rooms can accommodate an extra bed and some Cosy rooms are interconnecting. No 24 – a Master Cosy – offers a great space for families, and spacious Athelstan also has a sofa bed.

DOG-FRIENDLY?

Yes! Your pooch is welcome to join in the fun, just ask for a dog-friendly room when you book (expect to pay an additional £25 a night). They’ll have their own luxury bed, bowls, and treats, plus lots of wonderful walkies on the doorstep. Pooches are also allowed to join you in the lounge, where they can cosy up by the fire come winter.

ACCESSIBILITY

We’d recommend giving the hotel a ring before you book, to chat through the layout and bedroom configurations. The building is Grade II listed and dates back to the 13^th Century, which does make some adaptations tricky, but there is an accessible room.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: Romantic nights away, a girly weekend and family get togethers. With its gorgeous Garden Room, this is also a great spot for a wedding or big birthday bash.

Not for: Anyone looking to for a wild weekend on the town. Malmesbury is a peaceful place, but you’ll create your own fun at the Tyger Bar.

The damage: Very good value. Starters from £10, mains from £18, sides around the £7 mark, and puddings from £8. Afternoon tea from £34 (£15 for children) and there’s a set lunch, which comes in at £26 for two courses. Room prices start at £190 B&B in a cosy room, while townhouses start from £350 per night. Free wi-fi and parking.

The Old Bell Hotel, Abbey Row, Malmesbury SN16 0BW

Review: The Old Bell Hotel, Malmesbury

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